1.0: Casino Basics
1.1: Choosing a table
Before playing the game, you'll need to find
an appropriate table at which to play. If you're a newcomer
to this process, there are a few items to keep in mind.
You'll want to pay attention to several details about each
table that you approach. The most important item is the sign
declaring betting limits. Both the minimum and the maximum
allowable bets should be clearly posted on a sign on the
table-top. Look around to find a table that suits your bet
sizes. Often, you'll find that the lower limit ($3 or $5)
tables are quite crowded. In most casinos, the signs are
color-coded to match the minimum bets posted on them: Red
for $5, Green for $25, and Black for $100 minimum tables.
Next, you'll want to make sure that the table you have
selected is actually for blackjack, and not another of the
various table games offered at the casino. Blackjack tables
will almost certainly have the phrase "Blackjack pays 3 to
2" printed on the table felt. The next item to observe is
the type of game being dealt. Beginners are usually better
off playing the "shoe" games where 6 or 8 decks are used.
The advantage for beginners in this game is that all of the
player's cards are dealt face-up in front of each player,
and the dealer can help with playing questions and
decisions. Notice: Once you become proficient at the game,
you might want to switch to a game with fewer decks. The
casino's advantage is lower with fewer decks in play. But
for now, let's stick with the multi-deck games for the
ease-of-play advantage.
Back to Table of Contents
1.2: Buying chips
Once you are seated at a table, you'll need
to purchase some chips from the dealer for your bets. Wait
for a break in the action, and place your cash out in front
of you on the table felt. (Some casinos might make you wait
until the dealer shuffles to join the game.) An appropriate
buy-in amount is anywhere from 10 to 20 times your average
bet. If you are a $5 bettor, this means a buy-in of $50-$100
is typical. Don't try to hand your cash to the dealer. For
security reasons, he can't take anything from your hands.
Simply lay the cash on the table; he'll pick it up and
change it for an equal value of playing chips. You won't be
getting any change back either. He'll change the entire
amount, push the chips across the table to you, and then
drop the cash into a slot in the table top. Chip colors are
fairly standardized in the casino industry, with red chips
representing $5, green chips representing $25, and black
chips representing $100. You'll also see $1 value chips
(usually white) or $1 tokens (silver) on the table as well.
Some casinos also use a $2.50 chip that is usually pink in
color. Chip colors above the $100 denomination vary widely,
with purple a common choice for $500 chips. Take a quick
look at the chips to make sure that you know the values, and
that you were given the correct amount for your cash. If you
have any questions, just ask the dealer. Part of his job is
to help players learn the game.
Back to Table of Contents
1.3: Making a bet
On the table felt in front of your position,
you'll find a circle or box for your bets. Before each hand
begins, place your desired bet into the circle in one stack.
If you are betting multiple denominations of chips, place
the larger valued chips on the bottom of the stack, and the
smaller value chips on top. Once the cards have been dealt,
you aren't allowed to touch the bet in the circle. If you
need to know how much you have bet for doubling or splitting
(explained later), the dealer will count down the chips for
you. Once the hand is over, the dealer will move around the
table to each position in turn, paying winners and
collecting the chips from losing hands. After the dealer has
paid you, you can remove your chips from the circle, and
place your next bet. If you want to let your winnings ride,
you'll need to form one stack of chips from the two or more
stacks on the table after the dealer pays you. Remember, big
chips should be placed on the bottom.
Back to Table of Contents
1.4: Cashing in
When you're finished playing, you'll want to
take your chips to the cashier to exchange them for cash. If
you have groups of smaller denomination chips in front of
you, the dealer will probably want to "color up" your chips.
This simply means exchanging groups of smaller denomination
chips for larger valued chips. Wait until the end of a hand,
then simply push your chips out in front of you between the
betting boxes, so it can't be confused for a bet. The dealer
will count down the chips, and return to you a smaller stack
of chips of equal value. You can take these to the cashier
for cash, or to another table for more play.
Back to Table of Contents
2.0: Basics of Blackjack
2.1: Premise of the game
The basic premise of the game is that you
want to have a hand value that is closer to 21 than that of
the dealer, without going over 21. Other players at the
table are of no concern. Your hand is strictly played out
against the hand of the dealer. The rules of play for the
dealer are strictly dictated, leaving no decisions up to the
dealer. Therefore, there is not a problem with the dealer or
any of the other players at the table seeing the cards in
your hand. Indeed, if you're playing at a shoe game, the
player cards are all dealt face up. In any event, when
you're just learning to play, don't hesitate to show the
dealer or other players your cards and ask questions.
Back to Table of Contents
2.2: Values of the cards
In blackjack, the cards are valued as
follows:
An Ace can count as either 1 or 11, as demonstrated below.
The cards from 2 through 9 are valued as indicated.
The 10, Jack, Queen, and King are all valued at 10.
The suits of the cards do not have any
meaning in the game. The value of a hand is simply the sum
of the point counts of each card in the hand. For example, a
hand containing (5,7,9) has the value of 21. The Ace can be
counted as either 1 or 11. You need not specify which value
the Ace has. It's assumed to always have the value that
makes the best hand. An example will illustrate: Suppose
that you have the beginning hand (Ace, 6). This hand can be
either 7 or 17. If you stop there, it will be 17. Let's
assume that you draw another card to the hand and now have
(Ace, 6, 3). Your total hand is now 20, counting the Ace as
11. Let's backtrack and assume that you had instead drawn a
third card which was an 8. The hand is now (Ace, 6, 8) which
totals 15. Notice that now the Ace must be counted as only 1
to avoid going over 21.
A hand that contains an Ace is called a
"soft" total if the Ace can be counted as either 1 or 11
without the total going over 21. For example (Ace, 6) is a
soft 17. The description stems from the fact that the player
can always draw another card to a soft total with no danger
of "busting" by going over 21. The hand (Ace,6,10) on the
other hand is a "hard" 17, since now the Ace must be counted
as only 1, again because counting it as 11 would make the
hand go over 21.
Back to Table of Contents
2.3: The deal of the cards
Once all the bets are made, the dealer will
deal the cards to the players. He'll make two passes around
the table starting at his left (your right) so that the
players and the dealer have two cards each. (European and
Australian players: See exception at the bottom of this
section.) The dealer will flip one of his cards over,
exposing its value.
In the shoe games, the players cards will be
dealt face-up, and the players are not allowed to touch the
cards. If you're just beginning, you'll probably want to
start at the shoe game where you don't have to worry about
handling the cards.
In the hand-held games, the player's cards
are dealt face down, and the players pick up the cards. When
handling the cards in a hand-held game, here are a few
important things to remember.
-
You are only allowed to touch the cards
with one hand. If you're a poker player, this can take
some effort to break old habits!
-
You must keep the cards over the table.
-
Any cards that the dealer subsequently
deals to your hand must be left on the table, not added
to the cards in your hand.
Once the cards are dealt, play proceeds
around the table, starting at the first seat to the dealer's
left, also called first base. Each player in turn indicates
to the dealer how he wishes to play the hand. The various
player decisions are covered in their own section below.
After each player has finished his hand, the dealer will
complete his hand, and then pay or collect the player bets.
Now, the exception I mentioned: Some
casinos, mostly in Europe, give the dealer only one card
face up until all the players have finished their hands. The
dealer then deals his second card, and finishes his hand.
This is called the European No Hole Card rule. This can
change a player's strategy if, and only if, the dealer
collects all player bets in the event of a dealer blackjack.
Some casinos that deal only one card at first to the dealer
will refund any double-down or split bets if the dealer
turns out to have a blackjack. This type of no hole card
rule does not have any effect on the player's optimal
strategy, and should not be described as European No Hole
Card rules.
Back to Table of Contents
2.4: How the dealer plays his hand
The dealer must play his hand in a specific
way, with no choices allowed. There are two popular rule
variations that determine what totals the dealer must draw
to. In any given casino, you can tell which rule is in
effect by looking at the blackjack tabletop. It should be
clearly labeled with one of these rules:
-
"Dealer stands on all 17s": This is the
most common rule. In this case, the dealer must continue
to take cards ("hit") until his total is 17 or greater.
An Ace in the dealer's hand is always counted as 11 if
possible without the dealer going over 21. For example,
(Ace,8) would be 19 and the dealer would stop drawing
cards ("stand"). Also, (Ace,6) is 17 and again the
dealer will stand. (Ace,5) is only 16, so the dealer
would hit. He will continue to draw cards until the
hand's value is 17 or more. For example, (Ace,5,7) is
only 13 so he hits again. (Ace,5,7,5) makes 18 so he
would stop ("stand") at that point.
-
"Dealer hits soft 17": Some casinos use
this rule variation instead. This rule is identical
except for what happens when the dealer has a soft total
of 17. Hands such as (Ace,6), (Ace,5,Ace), and (Ace, 2,
4) are all examples of soft 17. The dealer hits these
hands, and stands on soft 18 or higher, or hard 17 or
higher. When this rule is used, the house advantage
against the players is slightly increased.
Again, the dealer has no choices to make in
the play of his hand. He cannot split pairs, but must
instead simply hit until he reaches at least 17 or busts by
going over 21.
Back to Table of Contents
2.5: What is a Blackjack, or a natural?
A blackjack, or natural, is a total of 21 in
your first two cards. A blackjack is therefore an Ace and
any ten-valued card, with the additional requirement that
these be your first two cards. If you split a pair of Aces
for example, and then draw a ten-valued card on one of the
Aces, this is not a blackjack, but rather a total of 21. The
distinction is important, because a winning blackjack pays
the player odds of 3 to 2. A bet of $10 wins $15 if the
player makes a blackjack. A player blackjack beats any
dealer total other than a dealer's blackjack, including a
dealer's regular 21. If both a player and the dealer make
blackjack, the hand is a tie or push.
The dealer will usually pay your winning
blackjack bet immediately when it is your turn to play. In
the face down games, this means that you should show the
blackjack to the dealer at that time. Some casinos may
postpone paying the blackjack until after the hand is over
if the dealer has a 10 card up and has not checked for a
dealer blackjack. Other casinos check under both 10 and Ace
dealer upcards, and would therefore pay the blackjack
immediately. Regardless, when you are dealt a blackjack,
turn the cards face up, and smile. It only happens about
once every 21 hands, but it accounts for a lot of the fun of
the game.
Back to Table of Contents
3.0: The Player's Choices
3.1: Surrender
We start with one of the least common
decisions, but it is appropriate to begin with surrender,
because this decision must be made before any other choice
about playing your hand. Not every game offers surrender,
and those that do fall into two categories which bear
expanation: Early vs Late.
Surrender offers you as a player the choice
to fold your hand, at the cost of half of the original bet.
You must make that decision prior to taking any other action
on the hand. For example, once you draw a third card, or
split, or double down, surrender is no longer an option.
The two varieties of surrender, early and
late, differ only in the way a dealer blackjack is handled.
In an early surrender game, a player may choose to surrender
before the dealer checks his cards for a blackjack, offering
a cheap way out even if the dealer turns out to have a
blackjack. Because this offers a healthy advantage to the
player, this version (early surrender) is rarely offered.
The much more common variation is late surrender, where the
dealer checks for blackjack first, and then only if he does
not have blackjack will allow players to surrender their
hands.
Surrender is a nice rule to have available
for players who use it wisely. Unfortunately, many players
surrender far too many hands. If you play in a game with
surrender, use the Strategy Engine to determine when
surrender is the appropriate play. To see how bad a hand
must be to properly be surrendered, consider the following:
To lose less with surrender, you must be only 25% likely to
win the hand (ignoring pushes). That is, if you lose 75% of
the time, and win only 25% of the time, your net loss is
about 50% of your bets, equal to the amount you'll lose
guaranteed by surrendering. So, learn to use the surrender
option, but make sure you know when it is appropriate.
It's worth mentioning again that the vast
majority of surrender is LATE surrender, after the dealer
checks for BJ. Make sure you choose the right option over on
the Strategy Engine. And if you do find a game that offers
early surrender, drop me a note. Good opportunities like
that are rare.
Back to Table of Contents
3.2: Hitting/Standing
The most common decision a player must make
during the game is whether to draw another card to the hand
("hit"), or stop at the current total ("stand"). The method
you use to indicate your decisions to the dealer depend on
which kind of game you are playing.
In the face-up shoe game, you indicate that
you want another card by tapping the table behind your cards
with a finger. You'll be required to make the hand signals,
rather than just announcing "hit" or "stand" to the dealer.
This is to eliminate any confusion or ambiguity in what you
choose, and also for the benefit of the ever-present
surveillance cameras. If you go over 21, or "bust", the
dealer will collect your bet, and remove your cards from the
table immediately. When you decide to stand, just wave your
hand in a horizontal motion over your cards.
In the face-down game, things are a little
different. You'll hold the first two cards with one hand. To
draw another card to your hand, simply scrape your cards
across the table felt lightly. Watch another player at first
to see how this works. The dealer will deal your additional
cards on the table in front of your bet. Add them to your
total hand value, but leave the actual cards on the table.
If you go over 21, just toss the two cards in your hand face
up on the table. The dealer will collect your bet, and
discard your hand. When you decide to stand, you should tuck
the two cards you are holding face-down under the chips that
you have bet. This can be a bit tricky the first few times.
Don't pick up the bet to place the cards underneath.
Remember, once the cards are dealt, you can't touch the
chips in the circle. Simply slide the corner of the cards
under the chips.
The descriptions are a lot tougher than the
actual play. Just pay attention to what other players are
doing and you'll fit right in.
Back to Table of Contents
3.3: Doubling Down
Among the more profitable player options
available is the choice to "double down". This can only be
done with a two card hand, before another card has been
drawn. Doubling down allows you to double your bet and
receive one, and only one, additional card to the hand. A
good example of a doubling opportunity is when you hold a
total of 11, say a (6,5) against a dealer's upcard of 5. In
this case, you have a good chance of winning the hand by
drawing one additional card, so you might as well increase
your bet in this advantageous situation. If you are playing
in a face-down game, just toss the two cards face-up on the
table in front of your bet. In either type of game, add an
additional bet to the betting circle. Place the additional
bet adjacent to the original bet, not on top of it. The
dealer will deal one additional card to the hand. In the
face-down game, he'll probably tuck it face-down under your
bet, to be revealed later.
Players are allowed to double down for any
amount up to the original bet amount, so you could double
down "for less" if you wanted. Just remember that you do
give up something for being allowed to increase your bet:
the ability to draw more than one additional card. If the
correct play is to double down, you should always double for
the full amount if possible.
The question of when it is appropriate to
double down is easily answered by using the
Blackjack
Basic Strategy Engine.
Back to Table of Contents
3.4: Splitting Pairs
When you are dealt a matching pair of cards
(remember, ignore the suits), you have the ability to split
the hand into two separate hands, and play them
independently. Let's say you are dealt a pair of eights for
a total of sixteen. Sixteen is the worst possible player
hand, since it is unlikely to win as is, but is very likely
to bust if you draw to it. Here's a great chance to improve
a bad situation.
If you are playing a hand-held game, toss
the cards face-up in front of your bet just like a double
down. Then, in either type of game, place a matching bet
beside the original bet in the circle. Note that you must
bet the same amount on a split, unlike a double-down, where
you are allowed to double for less. The dealer will separate
the two cards, and treat them as two independent hands.
Let's say you draw a 3 on the first 8, for a total of 11.
Many casinos will allow you to double down on that hand
total of 11 at this point. When this is allowed, the rule is
called "Double after Split", predictably enough. Regardless,
you can play the first hand to completion, at which point
the dealer will deal a second card to the second hand, and
you can begin making play decisions on it.
If you get additional pairs (in the first
two cards of a hand), most casinos will allow you to
resplit, making yet another hand. The most common rule
allows a player to split up to 3 times, making 4 separate
hands, with 4 separate bets. If double after split is
allowed, you could have up to 8 times your initial bet on
the table if you chose! Some casinos restrict resplitting,
and some allow unlimited splitting. Another fine point is
that you are allowed to split any 10-valued cards, so you
could split a (Jack, Queen) hand. However, this is usually a
bad play: Keep the 20.
The other complication for pair splits
concerns splitting Aces. Splitting Aces is a very strong
player move, so the casino restricts you to drawing only one
additional card on each Ace. Also, if you draw a ten-valued
card on one of your split Aces, the hand is not considered a
Blackjack, but is instead treated as a normal 21, and
therefore does not collect 3:2 odds. Some casinos allow
resplitting Aces if you draw another, while many do not
allow resplitting Aces although they often do allow
resplitting of any other pairs. With all these restrictions,
you may wonder whether it makes sense to split Aces. The
answer is a resounding YES. Always split pairs of Aces.
For accurate pair splitting advice, consult
the
Blackjack Basic Strategy Engine.
Back to Table of Contents
3.5: Insurance and Even Money
Insurance is perhaps the least understood of
all the commonly available rules for Blackjack. This is not
necessarily a bad thing because the insurance bet is
normally a poor bet for the player, with a high house
advantage. However, that's not always the case. So, here we
go:
If the dealer turns an up-card of an Ace, he
will offer "Insurance" to the players. Insurance bets can be
made by betting up to half your original bet amount in the
insurance betting stripe in front of your bet. The dealer
will check to see if he has a 10-value card underneath his
Ace, and if he does have Blackjack, your winning Insurance
bet will be paid at odds of 2:1. You'll lose your original
bet of course (unless you also have a Blackjack), so the net
effect is that you break even (assuming you bet the full
half bet for insurance.) This is why the bet is described as
"insurance", since it seems to protect your original bet
against a dealer blackjack. Of course, if the dealer does
not have blackjack, you'll lose the insurance bet, and still
have to play the original bet out.
In the simplest description, Insurance is a
side-bet, where you are offered 2:1 odds that the dealer has
a 10-valued card underneath ("in the hole"). A quick check
of the odds yields this: In a single deck game, there are 16
ten-valued cards. Assuming that you don't see any other
cards, including your own, the tens compose 16 out of 51
remaining cards after the dealer's Ace was removed. For the
insurance bet to be a break-even bet, the hole card would
have to be a ten 1 out of 3 times, but 16/51 is only 1 in
3.1875.
The situation is often thought to be
different when you have a Blackjack. The dealer is likely to
offer you "even money" instead of the insurance bet. This is
just the same old insurance bet with a simplification thrown
in. Let's ignore the "even money" name, and look at what
happens when you insure a Blackjack. Let's say you bet $10,
and have a Blackjack. You would normally collect $15 for
this, unless the dealer also has a blackjack, in which case
you push or tie.
Let's assume that the dealer has an Ace up, and you decide
to take insurance for the full amount, or $5. Now, two
things can happen:
1) The dealer has a Blackjack. I tie with the $10, but
collect 2:1 on the $5 insurance bet for a total profit of
$10.
2) The dealer does not have Blackjack. I lose the $5, but
collect $15 for my BJ. Total profit, again $10.
In either case, once I make the insurance bet, I'm
guaranteed a profit of $10, or even money for my original
bet.
So, casinos allow me to eliminate the insurance bet
altogether, and simply declare that I want even money for my
blackjack when the dealer has an Ace showing.
You're probably thinking that sounds like a
pretty good deal. You're guaranteed a profit even if the
dealer does have Blackjack. Just remember that the
guaranteed profit comes at a price. You'll win more money in
the long run by holding out for the $15, even though you'll
sometimes end up empty-handed. Nonetheless, many players are
adamant that they prefer to take even money when offered.
Just be aware that you're costing yourself money when you
make that choice.
The basic strategy player should simply
never take the insurance bet, even the "even money" variety.
Card counters on the other hand can often detect situations
where more than one-third of the remaining cards are
ten-valued, and the bet is then a profitable one. So, unless
you know the bet is favorable, just ignore it.
Back to Table of Contents
4.0: Summary
That's really all there is to know. If
you've never played the game before, it can be a little
intimidating at first. Just sit down at a table with a
friendly-looking dealer and give it a try. After 10 minutes,
all these details will be easy. Like many things, it's
easier done than said! Before you go to the casino, you may
want to try a few hands at the.
Good luck!
